The nose is dark and dense, redolent of ripe berry fruits and undergrowth. There’s something so vivid about the aroma here, recalling the physicality of walking through a densely planted forest. It’s also relatively restrained given the density of its aromas, and there’s an elegant containment to the way this wine leaks rather than shoves its aromas from the glass. There’s also a savoury dimension that isn’t immediately apparent, but which grows as the wine gains air.

In the mouth, a suitably impressive experience, that density of aroma translating to masses of flavour and structure on the palate. This is a serious wine, and one that has so much more to give, despite the attractiveness of its present flavours. Tannins are a particular highlight, being fine and ripe, as is a certain strand of sappy flavour that runs alongside berry fruit and contributes the most delicious freshness. Its forearm is muscular, this wine’s, although its hand is soft as it takes you for a spin. Not a bad combination. Drink 2020-2030.