As is often the case, the mark of a truly excellent winemaker is the quality of their lower tier wines, and if this is anything to go by, Thierry Pillot is up there with the best of a new generation. A thoughtful winemaker who favours tension and crystalline purity, he often eschews more interventionist techniques to give the wines greater transparency.

His Bourgogne Chardonnay 2020 reveals a streak of mineral tension on the palate backed up with layers of fresh citrus and pear fruits combined with melted butter and roasted nus on the finish. An expertly crafted village Bourgogne Blanc.