Bodegas Ontanon is a 5th generation family-owned and run winery in Rioja Baja (now Rioja Oriental). Here Raquel, Ruben and Maria Perez Cuevas continue their father Gabriel’s work to develop Bodegas Ontanon into one of the most highly-regarded wineries in Rioja. Ontanon has vast swathes of vineyard in this part of Rioja. Whilst wine production in the region is typically very dependent on contracts with grape growers, the Perez Cuevas family has seen fit to invest heavily in the purchase of its own land and vines. Its 250ha is a testament to the importance it places on controlling grape quality.

The family’s vineyards sit high in the Sierra Yerga mountains in the prestigious region surrounding Quel, defying misconceptions that Rioja Baja is one of the lesser sub-regions within Rioja. Many of their vineyards are actually planted at altitudes on a par with, or above, those in Rioja Alta and Alavesa; (La Pasada is their highest vineyard at 800m above sea level, planted in 1979 it is used for Reserva and Gran Reserva wines). The hot and dry Mediterranean climate allows for consistent ripening of the grapes with little disease and this has enabled them to pursue organic production across 57 hectares of vines.

Currently run by the fifth generation of the Prez Cuevas family to carry on the tradition of grape growing in the southern part of Rioja, they take great pride in maintaining their vineyards in the most sustainable manner possible as it is their land that supports their familys craft. As well as farming organically and producing a range of organic wines, Bodegas Ontan are certified with Wineries for Climate Protection.

A range of sustainable processes are employed in the vineyard and in the winery including; on trolled irrigation systems to reduce water usage and evaporation; planting vineyards in cooler, well-ventilated areas in order to reduce irrigation requirements and phytosanitary treatments; using plant/grass cover in vineyards to improve soil texture, to reduce tractor working hours and to lower carbon dioxide emissions; using environmentally friendly phytosanitary products that break down quickly and harmlessly; planting several hectares of pine forest near the vineyards in Ausejo and tidying and maintaining the oak forest near the vineyards in Quel. They are a carbon neutral operation, meaning the facilities no longer emit CO2 to the atmosphere.

The watering systems in the vineyards are supplied through solar power. It encourages its worker to car pool from its winery to its vineyards to reduce emissions.

Vineyards

Produced solely from Viura grapes grown in the Siete Caminos vineyard, on south-east facing slopes.

Vinification

This wine is aged according to the typical white Rioja method: 4 months in American oak followed by 6 months in bottle prior to release.

Tasting Notes

Whilst not exactly mainstream, white Rioja is now most definitely a thing. With examples like this its easy to see why. Produced solely from Viura and given 4 months in American oak to mellow you get just the right balance between ripe tropical fruit and toasty brioche.

Opulent aromas of pear and jasmine, with tropical notes and well-integrated oak. The palate is poised with pineapple, vanilla and crisp lemon acidity – and brioche notes on the finish.

Try with lobster or langoustines with cream-based pasta sauce, or roast chicken dishes.