Rather castigated across Bordeaux last year for over-cooking the 2022 release price (fortunately they have rectified this for 2023!), we were amused to see in the official en primeur leaflet that they compare this vintage to 1771 On a more serious note, Antoine Gimbert explained that they now handle the fruit extremely gently, stopping pumping-over and letting the juice filter through as softly as possible. With many small vats they can handle individual plots far more carefully, the sum of the parts making a very impressive whole. Las Cases is a real curranty beauty – intense and concentrated in the mouth, very balanced, textured with beautifully crafted tannins. Generous, long, very clean with a lovely finish.